Friday, May 30, 2003

Last night we went to the free movie (The Recruit) at the Marine House. The US government shows movies every Thursday night in a make-shift outdoor theatre set up on the compound where the small contingent of marines here in Kampala live. It's just up the street from where my office is, so that's very convenient. The movie was at 8pm, so we worked until 7:30 and then walked up. It was dark, except for the occasional glare of oncoming traffic, so I kept thinking that I might step into one of the many open manholes or other obstacles that scar the roadside. Luckily, I managed to avoid any such catastrophes. The Marine House was quite attractive, with a huge open courtyard where they set up the movie. They even had a barbecue going, although I declined to take part in that particular activity. Surprisingly, it was almost all Ugandans there. In fact, I'm not sure I saw any Americans, besides LaRuan of course (and since he is African American, he generally blends in with the Ugandans. They normally mistake him for a Ugandan until he speaks). Another friend who stays at Maria's Place, Walter (he's from Zimbabwe) also came to the movie. So I think this is going to be the normal pattern of Thursday nights- movies at the Marine House.

I also successfully road the matatu to the university this morning. I spent several hours hiking all around that hilly campus. I managed to talk to a couple of law lecturers and set up some appointments for interviews next week. I also visited the Women's and Gender Studies Faculty. I thought the library there might have some good resources for my research, but sadly, it was not very useful because most of the books were too old. Gender is such a rapidly developing field that it is necessary to have fairly recent material. In fact, I wonder how the department is, and what sort of work they are producing if the students cannot have access to more relevant material. Internet is accessible here, though, so I assume they can find some of what they need through that medium. Of course, relying on outdated sources could be another reason why Africa is so slow in mainstreaming gender into the development process.

Love,
Cara
I'm starting to learn the secrets of the matatus (minivan buses). Ideally, you find a seat as close to a window as possible (preferably near the front), in order to save yourself from the often overwhelming odor of unwashed skin. The fold-down seats in the aisles are the worst because everytime someone needs to get out, you are also forced to get out so that they squeeze past the crush of bodies. Really, the matatus here in Uganda are very nice and civilized, as compared to what I've heard about those in Nairobi. Here, the 14 passenger limit is certainly not respected, but then again, it's not grossly abused. In fact, I kind of like seeing Uganda from the window of a matatu. It's interesting to be right in the middle of the center of Ugandan activity, jerkily weaving between other cars, boda bodas (motorbikes), and pedestrians. In fact, tomorrow will be my ultimate "matatu test" because I have to navigate myself across the city to the Makerere University campus.

Love,
Cara

Wednesday, May 28, 2003

Experienced my first power outage last night. I hear it's a regular occurence. I was sitting in the front room reading (The Cider House Rules- which is a great book, by the way), and everything went black. It only lasted about ten minutes though, so it wasn't a big deal. I heard that power outages happen here all the time because the city just isn't as capable as most cities in the developed world at providing electricity for the high demand. Also, internet service can be a bit sketchy at times too. So don't be surprised if there are gaps in times you hear from me!

Since my life during the weekdays is, and will continue to be, completely consumed by work, I figured I ought to write a bit about the International Law Institute here in Kampala. From the outside the building looks like one of those military-type institutions. Heavy gates, no frills- a very solid structure. Inside is pretty nice though. Right now I am using the office of one of the staff who is on vacation, but next week I will be relegated to the one empty computer up in the library (hopefully we can get the computer working). It is upstairs and opens onto the roof. There is another woman, Freda, who works up there. She is a recent law graduate from Makerere University here in Kampala and is very friendly.

My big project for the time I am here is to complete a report on gender and development, specifically on how Uganda is incorporating awareness of gender inequalities in its development strategies. It will ideally lead to some ideas on how the ILI can incorporate gender issues into their training seminars. This correlates perfectly with my interests, and my year-long independent study project, so I'm quite happy with the project. Of course, I am also helping with various administrative-type duties that need to be done here at the ILI. For example, for much of today I helped one of the project administrators put together a bid proposal to EU to conduct future training sessions. That was my day!

-Cara

Monday, May 26, 2003

I woke up to a steady downpour today and looked out the window to discover that the rain here in Uganda is really beautiful. It seems to sparkle and glisten as it falls from the sky. The roads here are also mostly of a very red dirt, and the rain deepened the color to a dark maroon, with little rivers of water flowing through those "canyons" I mentioned before.

I was off to work by 7am, trekking my way through the muddy mess, so that by the time I arrived here I was quite covered in mud. Not exactly how I wanted to make my first impression at work, but at least I am not alone in my muddiness! The rain has quit now, and the sun is shining bright and it will probably get really hot. It hasn't reached the sweltering temperatures of the tropics that I know yet, but I expect that it will soon.

The main method of transportation here is by a sort of taxi- basically old, beat-up vans full of people that drive all over the place. It normally costs between 15 and 25 cents to take these taxis just about anywhere. My route to work is half taxi ride, and half walking- it takes about 30 minutes. The first word I learned here is pronounced like "stage" and it's how you tell a taxi driver to stop so you can get out.

I've discovered, much to my amusement, that the daytime soap "Passions" is the big craze here. I think it's about as cheesy as anything can get, but everyone here seems to love it. It seems kind of strange to me that, of all the shows out there, "Passions" has been the one to take Uganda by storm.

Love,
Cara

Sunday, May 25, 2003

My first impression of Uganda came from the drive from the airport in Entebbe to Kampala friday night. It was a blur of very reckless driving (as is to be expected in any developing country, although I think it may be particularly bad here), and an impression that the whole country must hang out on the roads. Everywhere we drove the roads were teaming with people- mostly walking. It seemed some were just out for a nightly stroll, others on errands, some returning from work.... people were literally everywhere. LaRuan (one of the guys from work who also lives at the place where I am staying) warned me that pedestrians here also tend to get mowed down by the traffic, so I really better be careful. Don't worry, that's my plan!

The place I am staying is really nice. It's called Maria's Place and is on top of a hill in a nicer part of town. That is, nice for Uganda. The house is on a small compound with a couple of other buildings. Maria even hosts weddings and other celebrations there. The road to the house gives a new meaning to the word "pothole." I'd say there are mini-canyons scarring the roads here. And no traffic lights at all. Hence the horrible traffic!

Well, not much to report yet. I had a relaxing day reading yesterday and getting to know my neighborhood. Work starts tomorrow. I'll make sure to let you know how that goes!

-Cara

PS- As might be expected, the mosquitoes here are really bad.

Friday, May 23, 2003

I only have a few minutes left on internet here at the hostel, but I figured I ought to post something. I got to Berlin last night. Had a direct flight from Denver to London, which was great actually. It gave me exactly enough time to have a drink, watch a movie, eat dinner, and go to sleep. So the flight was not as painful as it sometimes is. I got to Berlin yesterday evening. I had already booked ahead at a hostel near Zoo Station, so it was all pretty easy.

Its been 2 years since I was last in Europe and I almost forgot how much I love this place! I spent most of today just walking all over Berlin and rediscovering places I visited the last time I was here. And, of course, I had to make a stop at my favorite store- H&M (which they have in New York now too, but it hasnt spread to the rest of the US yet... pity). I sat in a beautiful park for an hour or so, revelling in the fact that I was allowed to sit on the grass, which is a rare thing in Europe. And thats about all I did with my day!

I plan on trying to get to sleep early tonight because I have to catch a bus to the airport at 4:21am. sick. Im excited to get to Uganda tomorrow!

Love,
Cara

Monday, May 19, 2003

I went a little crazy today all of a sudden. I was tooling around on the computer, sending out a few emails, going over my budget (freaking out by the fact that I really have less money than I need), packing the last few things that are still sitting around my room... and then all of a sudden I realized how much I have to get done before I leave. So I dashed out to the store and bought the few last things I decided I need for this trip (a dictaphone, batteries, razors, notebook, travel wallet...) and then went to REI where I made the somewhat spendy, but I think wise, decision to trade in my campstove and upgrade to a model that uses a wider array of fuels that I should be able to find anywhere in the world. It's pretty cool actually cuz I could even use jet fuel with this stove if, per chance, jet fuel just happens to be the only fuel available in some of those far-off places (unlikely, but, well, you never know....). So that mad shopping spree managed to somewhat calm me down, but now I am feeling lost standing in the middle of my empty room, turning around in circles, and wondering what the heck I'm forgetting.

Oh, I went to Red Rocks last night for the Big Head Todd concert and it was fabulous. I love that place!! The more I think about it, the more really *cool* things Colorado has to offer. I'm expecially going to miss skiing next year.

Love,
Cara

Sunday, May 18, 2003

I just had to say goodbye to Emily, and boy was that depressing. I am going to miss her soooo much. I hate saying goodbye, but it seems to be the story of my life. I do it to myself of course. I won't see Emily for 8 months (or anyone else for that matter). And I was just thinking that by the time I see my sister it will have been 15 months. That is just ridiculous! I need to somehow find a way to integrate my love for adventure and living abroad, while at the same time not leaving my friends and family behind for such long times. Is that possible?

Love,
Cara

Wednesday, May 14, 2003

The clock is ticking away and I keep thinking I'm going to forget to do something important and find myself halfway across the world without having paid off all my bills or suspended my car insurance, or, more likely, without that extra set of contact lenses or a toothbrush... I tend to be a minimalist packer, but often what that really means is that I am an underpacker, and that those who travel with me better be ready for some serious mooching on my part (don't say I didn't warn you). I have a feeling Cat has the same tendencies though... but hopefully what I forget, she will remember, and vice-versa.

I think right at this moment I am most looking forward to our few days in the Greek Islands and the coast of Turkey in August. I've been to Greece before, and right now the images of the deep blue sea and little white churches on rocks jutting out in the spray keeps filling my mind. I swear, I can almost smell the scent of salt water at night when I go to sleep... as you can tell, final exams have started to fill my mind with strange delusions. Too many consecutive days filled with only computers and textbooks. It's time to find my way outdoors-

Love,
Cara

Thursday, May 08, 2003

I'm trying to be cool like my sister and start writing in this blog more often- even though I'm not actually abroad yet. Preparations are pretty non-existent these days because of finals (only one week till the finals hell is over). I did, however, get confirmation from the registrar that my official "study plan" for next year is fine, and I set up a meeting to talk with professor Nanda about my independent study project. So I'm just waiting for the news that the internship in Kyrgyzstan is a go- keep your fingers crossed! And preparations for Uganda? Well, the email messages that I get from the staff at the ILI are so few and far between that I have a feeling it's all going to be pretty unorganized when I get there. I just hope someone will be able to come meet me at the airport so that I am not completely lost upon arrival in Entebbe. I have to admit that I am a bit uncharacteristically nervous about this summer. However, I have no doubts that the flutterings of nervousness will disappear as soon as I get there... I hope.
-Cara

Wednesday, May 07, 2003

I've hit the ultimate study burnout... and my exams haven't even started yet. Well, tomorrow is the first exam and then I'll be finished next Wednesday. That means I'm leaving in exactly 2 weeks. It's far too soon, but then not soon enough. Not soon enough because this year has really sapped away my energy and I feel that I need to do something really *fun* and refreshing. What better than travelling? For me, travel is the most invigorating experience. There's little that compares to the adventure of the unknown- I love the freedom of having my whole life packed into the backpack on my back. No material things holding me down... none of the stress of studying and exams... and no deadlines. Well, wait a minute. I'm getting a little bit ahead of myself here- I will have some deadlines since I'm going to be doing independent study courses and internships. Im pretty excited about that though, because I'll be able to pursue topics that are really of interest to me. I think the hardest part of the first year of law school was that I had to spend so much time on issues that I have no interest in pursuing. Somehow, I can't see myself ever entering into the realm of, say, tort law. I'll be putting all that behind me! And hopefully this year will reinvigorate me to come back and finish my studies. Actually, I'm sure it will. So I am impatiently waiting to jet off to the other side of the world and feel some unfamiliar earth under my feet.

But I'm also feeling that this is all coming too soon. Two weeks is a really short time to pack up everything I have, complete my first year of law school, and say goodbye to a lot of really good friends who I won't have a chance to see for months... The best thing about law school this year has been my friends- Emily, Mandy, Crystal, Rita, Mel.... you know who you are! I'm really going to miss you guys. You're the ones who made this a *great* year. And of course, Chiz, I am feeling incredibly guilty that I'm leaving just when you come to North America! Anyway, I love you guys and it makes me feel so good to know that I have such good friends. Of course, I really hope you'll all be able to come out and visit sometime:) Think of the great adventures we could have together.... tempting?

Love,
Cara