"Bishkek Wanderings"
First weekend in Bishkek and our plans to visit Lake Issyk-Kul were aborted in the hopes that we will have the chance to attend a conference there next week. Instead, we spent the weekend orientating ourselves with Bishkek. We went to a place called Manas Isly- something like that. It was a sort of an ode to the cement creations of mankind commemorating the Great Manas. Manas is the Kyrgyz national epic hero- "The Illiad of the Steppes" that tells of the formation of the Kyrgyz people. Manas is the superhero who carved out a homeland for the Kyrgyz people.
The best part of the visit was actually the stunning view of the mountains. Most of the time the mountains hide behind a shroud of clouds, and you wouldn't even know they're there. But on a rare day when the clouds part and the sky is a soft azure, the mountains tower over the city, their snow-capped peaks reaching into eternity. Bishkek is on a sort of flat plain rolling out from the base of the mountains (kind of like Denver, although the mountains here are far more stunning). Cara, who now uses "The Lord of the Rings" as her measuring stick for worldly beauty, definitely classifies these mountains as something of such epic proportions.
That was Sunday... actually, now that we look back on this weekend, we didn't really do that much.... Saturday was Cat's host mom's birthday so we both attended her celebration and got a taste of some fine home cookin. We were also coerced into dancing with her mom to try to banish the blues when the whole family left for the airport because Julia, one of Cat's host sisters, was surprisingly called to take a job as a stewardess on a flight to the UAE that evening.
Sunday afternoon was a beautiful, magical day in Bishkek. But we spent most of the time wandering around trying to find brown sugar so we could make cookies. To no avail. But we did substitute cinnamon and white sugar for brown sugar, and it turned out somewhat decent. Well, Cara was horribly offended by the quality of these cookies, definitely terming them the worst chocolate chip cookies she had ever made. A true travesty to cookie making. Cat thinks Cara is delusional and has too high standards for cookie making. Once we figured out how not to use foil and charboil the bottoms they were a delicate mix of chocolate hazelnut and sugar cookie. Although, by this time we'd both had so much dough, they all tasted the same and maybe we were both just hoping that our craving for real American chocolate chip cookies had been satisfied. We both had rather upset stomachs for the rest of the night. There's a reason why mom's say not to eat so much dough...
At least we know that we can cook normally, and these cookies were just a fluke (it's only because we didn't have the right ingredients and the oven was old and testy)... right. Well, we did manage something spectacular with that lasagna in Istanbul. Look for more cooking adventures to come throughout this time in Kyrgyzstan, as we will attempt to delight our friends with culinary splendours.
Anyway, we've been at the office since 9 this morning and have the enviable job of staying here all night and all day tomorrow. There has to be someone at the office 24 hours a day in order to ward off crime. Actually, it's not a bad job cuz there's a comfy sofa bed and internet all night long...
We are both determined to regain our healthy selves and put the days of food food and more food behind us. Thus we have started our new resolution by fasting for a day and drinking lemon water. Although we are about to eat soup.
Written by Cara and Cat
Monday, September 29, 2003
Thursday, September 25, 2003
It seems we're finally figuring out living arrangements, after a bit of drama. Don't worry, we're back to our old "wedded bliss." George will be staying with a Kyrgyz/Russian family for the duration of her time in Bishkek, and Cara will spend the first month partially with Masha, the young and vivacious Director of the Youth Human Rights Group, and partially in an apartment (where Cat expects to crash several times a week). Next month Cara will be able to move in with Nazgul, another girl in the office, after Annelie, an intern from Germany, departs.
The gray of the other day has disappeared and the sun has emerged once again today. It teasingly reminds us of summer, although we know fall is just around the corner- the leaves have already begun to change. We are passing a peaceful afternoon listenin to a little Nelly at the Legal Aid Office, because Altynai, the permanent staff member here, has the day off. So we're holding the fort and trying to avoid answering the telephone, where we would only be confronted with a garble of Russian.
Let's backtrack a litte and give you a review of the last couple of days since our arrival in Kyrgyzstan. After much confusion in the airport in Tashkent regarding our bags (we were living in deathly fear that our bags might end up on the other side of the world, and never catch up with us....), we decided to trust the nonchlant airline agents in Tashkent and get on the two engine jet plane to Bishkek filled with a group of 30 turbaned male Indian tourists, who we secretly feared were Muslim extremists plotting their next maneuvre. Of course, our fears were completely ludicrous and they turned out to be a friendly group of Siekh tourists. We also discovered why it is so easy for people to hijack airplanes, and for terrorist groups to travel around this area of the world. First, Cara herself was a bit of a danger to the airplane. She had a bottle of camping fuel in her backpack that she totally forgot about and none of the airline security seemed to even notice, though it did go through multiple x-rays in Baku. Whether or not those machines actually worked is debatable. Once reached Tashkent we were ushered to the transit lounge, without anyone double checking our identities, and then, on the flight from Tashkent to Bishkek nobody even looked at our passports a single time. What a stark contrast to the land crossing between Turkey and Georgia, where our passports were scoured at least a dozen times.
We arrived in Bishkek on Sunday morning, and much to our pleasant surprise, easily obtained two-month multiple-entry visas at the airport. So, for all of you travelling this way, that's the way to do it. We were met by Sveta, Catherine's "sister" at the airport. She is a tall, beautiful, blond-haired Kyrgyz girl of Russian heritage. She gave us our first taste of Kyrgyzstan at a roadside stop on the way into the city, where melons could be bought for 5 cents. We still can't remember the name of the melon, although we've been told a million times, but it is was delicious and similar to a honeydew.
Much to our surprise, Cara was dumped off alone in an apartment (although it was rather plush, outfitted with English TV and the best shower she's had the entire trip), and Cat was taken back with Sveta to her home. We ended up meeting that evening for dinner with some of the other girls from the office (Nazgul and Annelie) for "traditional" Kyrgyz food (what is really Italian food), and then sadly went our respective ways to get some rest for the start of our internship on Monday morning.
Monday was a late start and all we did was meet everyone and basically hang around the office and read literature on what the Youth Human Rights Group does. We also did a lot of wandering around the city looking for appropriate housing for Cara (she definitely nixed the option of living with a scary Russian woman who demanded that she stay away from the kitchen- or rather, all parts of the house except the bedroom- because she thought Cara would negligently burn the place down). Alas, it was an unfruitful endeavor, although we did get to know the town much better in our wanderings.
Early Tuesday morning Cat tried her Russian skills on the musudka (minibuses packed with many people that are the major form of public transportation in Bishkek), and managed to say "Astanavitze pazausta" - however you spell it - which means "stop good sir and let me out here." We rendezvoused at the only main landmark we knew in town, a cafe named "Fatboys." We had the good fortune to meet a Montanan by the name of Jim Carney who is the in-country director for the Montana-Kyrgyz State Partnership Project (which is part of the Army National Guard program here in Kyrgyzstan). We had a sumptous American breakfast, a real cup of Joe and eggs with salsa (Jim's offering which was purchased at the army base). He was kind enough to give us a ride to the U.S. Embassy which is very far from the center so we could register. He also returned to "Fatboys" and we went on our way to the Legal Aid office. The rest of the day was tranquil, except Cara had a cultural experience around midnight trying to get into her apartment building after an enjoyable evening with Masha and Nazgul. Much to her horror the outer door was locked and required a code to enter, so using her creative problem-solving abilities and her newly discovered talents as a mime, she approached a road-side shopkeeper to help her out. After many refusals by neighbors to use their phones, a fellow building resident happened by to a while later and let Cara in. Bishkek is a bit of a Dr. Jeckyl at night, with many the vodka drinking drunkards and cat callers wandering the dark forested streets (more like pot-holed alley-ways). Basically, the experience scared the shit out of her (which for all you who know our strong, courageous Cara, it takes a really sketchy situation to do that)!
Wow, it seems like we've been here much longer than four days. Yesterday, Wednesday, was eventful. After much floundering and anxiety Cat finally figured out what she's going to do her research on, the Child Protection system in the U.S. and how it can be used to help form Juvenile Justice policy in Kyrgyzstan. In the evening we went out to try Manty (meat dumplings) and mushroom soup with Sveta and then met Bella and John (Bella is Jim Carney's interpreter and she's married to an American from Oregon, John) at Zum (a state owned department store). We went back to their place for some vodka and cherry juice (a bottle of vodka costs about .50 cents). There was a delegation of legal professionals in town from the US. Two of the group members who happened to be a judge and prosecutor went out on the town and we joined them at a Zeppelin's (where a severely out of tune Kyrgyz cover band was playing Rock'n Roll). Afterwhich their driver a hard core Sovietesque guy named Dima who took it upon himself to give the guys a real "cultural immersion" escorted us to a fancy white hotel with a red sign out front sporting "Go-Go" dancers. We ascended the stairs amdist increasingly lude photographs and were greeted by two shrewd business women sitting in vacant foyer in front of an unmarked door. As this was men's entertainment the women were let in for free. As depicted in the big screen the door opened to a large, misty, black-lite room dominated by a stage, with three very conspicuous poles front and center. Needless to say we spent a rather amusing and unexpected night in a Russian strip club with a judge and prosecutor. To all our guy friends out there, we really don't understand why you're willing to pay so much money to see a few naked girls on stage.
Written by Cat and Cara
The gray of the other day has disappeared and the sun has emerged once again today. It teasingly reminds us of summer, although we know fall is just around the corner- the leaves have already begun to change. We are passing a peaceful afternoon listenin to a little Nelly at the Legal Aid Office, because Altynai, the permanent staff member here, has the day off. So we're holding the fort and trying to avoid answering the telephone, where we would only be confronted with a garble of Russian.
Let's backtrack a litte and give you a review of the last couple of days since our arrival in Kyrgyzstan. After much confusion in the airport in Tashkent regarding our bags (we were living in deathly fear that our bags might end up on the other side of the world, and never catch up with us....), we decided to trust the nonchlant airline agents in Tashkent and get on the two engine jet plane to Bishkek filled with a group of 30 turbaned male Indian tourists, who we secretly feared were Muslim extremists plotting their next maneuvre. Of course, our fears were completely ludicrous and they turned out to be a friendly group of Siekh tourists. We also discovered why it is so easy for people to hijack airplanes, and for terrorist groups to travel around this area of the world. First, Cara herself was a bit of a danger to the airplane. She had a bottle of camping fuel in her backpack that she totally forgot about and none of the airline security seemed to even notice, though it did go through multiple x-rays in Baku. Whether or not those machines actually worked is debatable. Once reached Tashkent we were ushered to the transit lounge, without anyone double checking our identities, and then, on the flight from Tashkent to Bishkek nobody even looked at our passports a single time. What a stark contrast to the land crossing between Turkey and Georgia, where our passports were scoured at least a dozen times.
We arrived in Bishkek on Sunday morning, and much to our pleasant surprise, easily obtained two-month multiple-entry visas at the airport. So, for all of you travelling this way, that's the way to do it. We were met by Sveta, Catherine's "sister" at the airport. She is a tall, beautiful, blond-haired Kyrgyz girl of Russian heritage. She gave us our first taste of Kyrgyzstan at a roadside stop on the way into the city, where melons could be bought for 5 cents. We still can't remember the name of the melon, although we've been told a million times, but it is was delicious and similar to a honeydew.
Much to our surprise, Cara was dumped off alone in an apartment (although it was rather plush, outfitted with English TV and the best shower she's had the entire trip), and Cat was taken back with Sveta to her home. We ended up meeting that evening for dinner with some of the other girls from the office (Nazgul and Annelie) for "traditional" Kyrgyz food (what is really Italian food), and then sadly went our respective ways to get some rest for the start of our internship on Monday morning.
Monday was a late start and all we did was meet everyone and basically hang around the office and read literature on what the Youth Human Rights Group does. We also did a lot of wandering around the city looking for appropriate housing for Cara (she definitely nixed the option of living with a scary Russian woman who demanded that she stay away from the kitchen- or rather, all parts of the house except the bedroom- because she thought Cara would negligently burn the place down). Alas, it was an unfruitful endeavor, although we did get to know the town much better in our wanderings.
Early Tuesday morning Cat tried her Russian skills on the musudka (minibuses packed with many people that are the major form of public transportation in Bishkek), and managed to say "Astanavitze pazausta" - however you spell it - which means "stop good sir and let me out here." We rendezvoused at the only main landmark we knew in town, a cafe named "Fatboys." We had the good fortune to meet a Montanan by the name of Jim Carney who is the in-country director for the Montana-Kyrgyz State Partnership Project (which is part of the Army National Guard program here in Kyrgyzstan). We had a sumptous American breakfast, a real cup of Joe and eggs with salsa (Jim's offering which was purchased at the army base). He was kind enough to give us a ride to the U.S. Embassy which is very far from the center so we could register. He also returned to "Fatboys" and we went on our way to the Legal Aid office. The rest of the day was tranquil, except Cara had a cultural experience around midnight trying to get into her apartment building after an enjoyable evening with Masha and Nazgul. Much to her horror the outer door was locked and required a code to enter, so using her creative problem-solving abilities and her newly discovered talents as a mime, she approached a road-side shopkeeper to help her out. After many refusals by neighbors to use their phones, a fellow building resident happened by to a while later and let Cara in. Bishkek is a bit of a Dr. Jeckyl at night, with many the vodka drinking drunkards and cat callers wandering the dark forested streets (more like pot-holed alley-ways). Basically, the experience scared the shit out of her (which for all you who know our strong, courageous Cara, it takes a really sketchy situation to do that)!
Wow, it seems like we've been here much longer than four days. Yesterday, Wednesday, was eventful. After much floundering and anxiety Cat finally figured out what she's going to do her research on, the Child Protection system in the U.S. and how it can be used to help form Juvenile Justice policy in Kyrgyzstan. In the evening we went out to try Manty (meat dumplings) and mushroom soup with Sveta and then met Bella and John (Bella is Jim Carney's interpreter and she's married to an American from Oregon, John) at Zum (a state owned department store). We went back to their place for some vodka and cherry juice (a bottle of vodka costs about .50 cents). There was a delegation of legal professionals in town from the US. Two of the group members who happened to be a judge and prosecutor went out on the town and we joined them at a Zeppelin's (where a severely out of tune Kyrgyz cover band was playing Rock'n Roll). Afterwhich their driver a hard core Sovietesque guy named Dima who took it upon himself to give the guys a real "cultural immersion" escorted us to a fancy white hotel with a red sign out front sporting "Go-Go" dancers. We ascended the stairs amdist increasingly lude photographs and were greeted by two shrewd business women sitting in vacant foyer in front of an unmarked door. As this was men's entertainment the women were let in for free. As depicted in the big screen the door opened to a large, misty, black-lite room dominated by a stage, with three very conspicuous poles front and center. Needless to say we spent a rather amusing and unexpected night in a Russian strip club with a judge and prosecutor. To all our guy friends out there, we really don't understand why you're willing to pay so much money to see a few naked girls on stage.
Written by Cat and Cara
Tuesday, September 23, 2003
My first impression of Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan is a jumble of massive Soviet-style architecture, streets, and squares. The city is full of parks, including the "children's park" complete with nightly amusement rides and groups of young people strolling the many green paths. Today is a grey day- the air is still, but a drizzle has persisted throughout the day. I hope that it might clear up by this weekend so that we can enjoy a short trip to Lake Issyk-Kul.
Signing out,
Cara
Signing out,
Cara
Monday, September 22, 2003
Friday, September 19, 2003
One important recommendation for any of you that plan to visit Turkey- if you want to save money take the train rather than the bus. Granted, the train routes are somewhat limited, and train trips can take around 18 hours, but the savings are astronomical for the budget traveller. A $25 bus ticket costs about $5 for the equivalent train trip. We’ve also found trains to be the most comfortable form of travel- especially our most recent train trip from Tbilisi, Georgia to Baku, Azerbaijan. The trains out in the Caucuses are relatively empty and we had a compartment to ourselves, with two beds for each of us to stretch out on and sleep the night away…
But we would be remiss not to backtrack and tell the tales of what happened after we left Istanbul. First, we passed a lovely day in Adapazeri with Berkay. He neglected to inform us that it was actually his birthday, so imagine our surprise when we ended up joining in a family birthday celebration for our friend! Not to mention eating four servings of cake each…
That night we had our first night train journey across Turkey to Kayseri, and then a bus to Goreme, Cappadocia. How can one possibly describe the awe-inspiring region of Cappadocia?? It is a geological wonderland smack in the middle of Turkey- volcanic eruptions and ensuing years of erosion have molded a landscape of steep cliffs and valleys populated with “ferry chimneys.” These ferry chimneys are tall, rock towers, many of which were hollowed out hundreds of years ago and made into homes and churches by the local population. They look very much like something out of a fairy tale- perhaps Hobbit houses or the dwellings of gnomes or elves… On our first night in Goreme we watched the sun sink behind a backdrop of ferry chimneys and distant cities from atop our own cave hotel. The beauty of the departing day, in combination with the stillness of the city below, the faint breeze drifting up from dusty valley, and the crisp smell of the onset of evening made for a memorable and perfect snapshot in time.
We opted to take a day tour , the Green Tour, the following day because it was the most efficient and affordable way to see as much of the region as possible. It turned out to be a good decision, because we both really enjoyed the tour! Our guide, Ali, was well-versed in the political, social and geological history of the region. One of the wonders, which made the greatest impression on us was the eight-story underground city at Derenkuyu (there are some eight underground cities in the area, the one we visited is the largest and could at its zenith house 33,000 inhabitants). Some of the tunnels were so small that one practically had to slide side ways and fold in half to fit through, this ingenius architecture protected the city from hordes descending upon them, as beseiging armies could only march single file down the tunnels. The city was complete with an underground well, ventilation and communication systems and chipped by hand out of the rock. The Ihlara valley was the next spectacular destination. We got a chance to strech our legs and wander through valley floor next to a stream, munched on wild blackberries and gazed at the towering cliff sides rising above us spotted with ancient cave dwellings and churches. Cara also dramatically fell in the water trying to avoid getting her shoes wet, she turned her whole self brown instead. After lunch by the stream we explored one of the many fascinating carved churches. Burrowed columns create a large open space for worship, and tiny windows shed dim light in the many tawny colored rooms rising in and out of the rock. We then hopped in the van and headed for Avanos, the ceramic capital of the area, where a uinque style of pottery has been made since the Hittites period.
The next morning we arose with plans of exploring and hiking all around the valleys of Cappadocia. We set out with a bag of nuts and fruit for sustenance, and our camera in hand. We were hoping to make it to a place called Devrent Valley, but sadly failed in this endeavor when we realized that we would not be able to pass over or under a large plateau (White Mountain) dividing the valleys. We did, however, trek all around the nearby Rose Valley, popping in and out of abandoned caves before emerging several hours later, dust-covered and ready to explore other regions. We had read quite a bit about a nearby town called Urgup that sounded quite interesting, and we had good luck in hitching a ride there. Urgup is home to a famous winery, where local wines are made in abundance, and tourists have the opportunity to taste the many types to their heart’s content…
Our time in Cappadocia ended too soon, and we were sorry to say goodbye to such a beautiful and unique corner of the world, but we had already stayed in Turkey longer than intended. We found ourselves on another night train- this time bound for the Eastern town of Erzurum. It wasn’t quite this simple though- we did accidentally get on the wrong train, thus enduring the rather animated gestures and shouts of the Turkish conductor before we figured out what the heck was going on. Needless to say it wasn’t entirely our fault since we asked many Turkish people who told us that we were to get on that train and the train was three hours late and we were not told that there were two trains going in our direction.
We were dropped at 4 AM at the next train stop, a small building on the tracks. It was chilly and we couldn’t wait to get on our train. Luckily, we were able to find a compartment with only three people two of whom left shortly. Cara and I streched out and enjoyed having to use our sleeping bags as the last ride had been stifling hot. We found ourselves in Ezurum at 8 PM and decided to walk to the bus station to head up to Yusefeli (a little mountain town near Atvin to do some treking) as it seemed close on the map. After walking ways in the dark we clamoured into a taxi preffering safety (after a man charged out of the dark and grabbed Cara’s ass, crotch to be more precise) to saving money. The bus station was bustling, we found out that there were many families in transit to register their freshmen for university classes. We found a nice secluded spot and set up “camp” ie put down our bags and sat on the thermarest. We looked every- bit the “hobos”. A girl passed and we pondered whether she was Turkish or a tourist, she approached us and started babbling Turkish. We said we didn’t understand and she said, “Are you tourists?” and started blushing excitedly. We said yes, and made instant friends. She was with her father and they proceeded to invite us to their home and we changed our bus ticket to go to Trabazon instead of Yusefeli. We chatted and drank chai until 2 Am with Sennur and then went to curl up and catch some ZZZs. The next day we caught the bus at 7 AM for Trabazon and due to falling rock, and an abysmally slow driver, we ended up arriving at 5 PM (three hrs later than she expected us). We were deposited at the Police Station in Arakli (she lives above it, her father is a Policeman) where we exchanged hand-language for Turkish and finally found Sennur. She frantically brought us upstairs and shared all that is the beauty of Turkish hospitality. Sennur has two younger sisters and two younger brothers. Her mom is warm and jovial. We learned how to make Borek and some Black Sea dishes, and Cat tried her hand at embroidery. We went to a local futbol match (where we were the only women in a stadium full of rowdy men, some of whom were banging huge drums and blowing torches) and visited her friends in Sumela. All in all it was a fabulous blessing to spend two days on the Black Sea with Sennur and her family. . . .
We rushed to meet the bus that stopped for us in front of Sennur’s house, barely able to maneuvre the bags chock full of pounds of organic hazelnuts, tomatoes, green peppers etc. that her mom prepared for our ride. The bus ride was long and uneventful until we had the luck to meet a fellow traveler, Tamir, at a morning rest-stop, who unbeknownst to us was on our bus as well. The three of us endured the many hours of boarder crossings. The passports were checked every five feet by yet another man dressed in khaki. A sketchy moment was when a man dressed in black demanded our passports and headed into a warehouse, but all turned out well.
Tamir knew of a great place to stay in Tbilisi, Georgia and we found ourselves in a women’s international tennis match before finding the pension. Nazi’s pension is recommended for all travelers. Nazi, a stately Georgian grandma, opens her home to all and treats them like family during the period of their stay. We stayed with her for two nights and wandered the streets of Tbilisi with Tamir during the days. During this time we got to know Tamir, a truly beautiful and inspirational human-being whom we felt blessed to meet. He has the amazing ability to bring a smile to any one’s face and make a friend of any passerby. Nazi also hosted some other colourful individuals who made our stay memorable. We spent our evening in the company of Mike, who might be described as a humorous critic who enjoyed discussing all topics ranging from the “Bachelorette” (an American Reality TV show) to globalization and the pros and cons of protest movements. We also made the aquaintance of Chris, a roving Canadian Buddhist concert pianist, who had explored just about every corner of the world and gave us some great ideas for future adventure and how to live a la Marco Polo.
Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, is a tree-lined city that sits astride a meandering river. It abounds with the architectural remnants of Moorish, Persian, Turk, Armenian and Georgian ancestry. The endless rain soaked us to the skin and after wandering up to the top of a hill to see an ancient fort converted to a church, and seeing most everything the town had to offer, we returned to Nazi’s and drank Chai (care of Cara). The view was fabulous, a low hanging rain haze mingled with church steeples, sliced by the green river.
We were assured earlier that day that the daily train for Baku departed at 8 PM (we bought our plane tickets for Bishkek at the main travel agency in town, Caucasus Travel). So, that night we arrived at the train station just after 7 PM and tried to buy a ticket at the ticket window, but were directed to the “American Express” train upstairs. We diligently followed these directions and prepared to board the train where we were stopped and asked for our visas and tickets. Of course, we had our visas, but still needed the tickets. Prepared for the $25 ticket fee we were horrified and stunned by the $220 US fee demanded by the man with a giant smirk on his face. Cara declared enraged, “I know the price of the ticket, 8 people told me it was $25”. We tried to negotiate and Cara even tried storming the train, but alas, a mean-spirited very hefty bouncer with a gun didn’t think it was too funny and dragged her off. Cat stood by shocked and somewhat dumbfounded. Not defeated, we marched away determined to prove the “stupid shit-head,” excuse our French, wrong. (Note that we had to be across the border by midnight when our visas expired) We pleaded with one girl and she half-heartedly help us to no avail. After getting about 10 men in the train station running crazy trying to help us find the cheap train going to Baku we were made aware that the “American Express” was indeed the only one going that direction and that there were no buses or mini-buses going that way either. Frantic, about to pull “girl tears,” a really nice Georgian guy, Mike, came to our aid. He tried yet again to haggle with the evil American Express men (who ever heard of a train costing 5 times as much as a flight especially when Georgians make less than $2 US a day- It’s all a big, big scam that’s what it is!!!!) to no avail. Mike arranged a speedy taxi ride for us and after crashing over many water-logged pot-holes we caught up with a train headed for Baku just as it was to cross the border. The next thing we knew we were being scurried into the customs office by military personnel and let on to the train with a smile. Whew!!!!
To our pleasant surprise the compartments were decked out with two beds, pillows and a blanket included. We settled in for the night ready for some sweet dreams. We closed our door and were awoken by banging and when we finally managed to open it (old Soviet train with sticky, sticky doors) we were greeted by severe looking Azeri border guards asking for money and passports. After some jumbled Russian conversation we said we only had “personal clothes” in our bags, and the guy stopped demanding money and let us alone.
In our struggle to shut the door once more a kindly German man tried to help us and we ended up having a lively conversation long into the night. Reiner was a former Merchant Marine/Ship Captain/Habour Master who has lived all over the world and is now working with the World Bank to train navigators in developing countries. We tossed and turned and arrived in Baku this morning at 9:30. Cat was immediately put off by the horde of wolfish taxi cab drivers waiting at the train door, but we continued on foot and found a money exchange and metro. The hotel, Canub, is an old Soviet building, and we found it easily. Today, we cut each other’s hair in order to look spiffy for our internships that begin on Monday. We indulged and ate scrumptious Indian food at the Taj Mahal restaurant and have been emailing the rest of the afternoon as there is not much to see here.
- Written by Cara and Cat
But we would be remiss not to backtrack and tell the tales of what happened after we left Istanbul. First, we passed a lovely day in Adapazeri with Berkay. He neglected to inform us that it was actually his birthday, so imagine our surprise when we ended up joining in a family birthday celebration for our friend! Not to mention eating four servings of cake each…
That night we had our first night train journey across Turkey to Kayseri, and then a bus to Goreme, Cappadocia. How can one possibly describe the awe-inspiring region of Cappadocia?? It is a geological wonderland smack in the middle of Turkey- volcanic eruptions and ensuing years of erosion have molded a landscape of steep cliffs and valleys populated with “ferry chimneys.” These ferry chimneys are tall, rock towers, many of which were hollowed out hundreds of years ago and made into homes and churches by the local population. They look very much like something out of a fairy tale- perhaps Hobbit houses or the dwellings of gnomes or elves… On our first night in Goreme we watched the sun sink behind a backdrop of ferry chimneys and distant cities from atop our own cave hotel. The beauty of the departing day, in combination with the stillness of the city below, the faint breeze drifting up from dusty valley, and the crisp smell of the onset of evening made for a memorable and perfect snapshot in time.
We opted to take a day tour , the Green Tour, the following day because it was the most efficient and affordable way to see as much of the region as possible. It turned out to be a good decision, because we both really enjoyed the tour! Our guide, Ali, was well-versed in the political, social and geological history of the region. One of the wonders, which made the greatest impression on us was the eight-story underground city at Derenkuyu (there are some eight underground cities in the area, the one we visited is the largest and could at its zenith house 33,000 inhabitants). Some of the tunnels were so small that one practically had to slide side ways and fold in half to fit through, this ingenius architecture protected the city from hordes descending upon them, as beseiging armies could only march single file down the tunnels. The city was complete with an underground well, ventilation and communication systems and chipped by hand out of the rock. The Ihlara valley was the next spectacular destination. We got a chance to strech our legs and wander through valley floor next to a stream, munched on wild blackberries and gazed at the towering cliff sides rising above us spotted with ancient cave dwellings and churches. Cara also dramatically fell in the water trying to avoid getting her shoes wet, she turned her whole self brown instead. After lunch by the stream we explored one of the many fascinating carved churches. Burrowed columns create a large open space for worship, and tiny windows shed dim light in the many tawny colored rooms rising in and out of the rock. We then hopped in the van and headed for Avanos, the ceramic capital of the area, where a uinque style of pottery has been made since the Hittites period.
The next morning we arose with plans of exploring and hiking all around the valleys of Cappadocia. We set out with a bag of nuts and fruit for sustenance, and our camera in hand. We were hoping to make it to a place called Devrent Valley, but sadly failed in this endeavor when we realized that we would not be able to pass over or under a large plateau (White Mountain) dividing the valleys. We did, however, trek all around the nearby Rose Valley, popping in and out of abandoned caves before emerging several hours later, dust-covered and ready to explore other regions. We had read quite a bit about a nearby town called Urgup that sounded quite interesting, and we had good luck in hitching a ride there. Urgup is home to a famous winery, where local wines are made in abundance, and tourists have the opportunity to taste the many types to their heart’s content…
Our time in Cappadocia ended too soon, and we were sorry to say goodbye to such a beautiful and unique corner of the world, but we had already stayed in Turkey longer than intended. We found ourselves on another night train- this time bound for the Eastern town of Erzurum. It wasn’t quite this simple though- we did accidentally get on the wrong train, thus enduring the rather animated gestures and shouts of the Turkish conductor before we figured out what the heck was going on. Needless to say it wasn’t entirely our fault since we asked many Turkish people who told us that we were to get on that train and the train was three hours late and we were not told that there were two trains going in our direction.
We were dropped at 4 AM at the next train stop, a small building on the tracks. It was chilly and we couldn’t wait to get on our train. Luckily, we were able to find a compartment with only three people two of whom left shortly. Cara and I streched out and enjoyed having to use our sleeping bags as the last ride had been stifling hot. We found ourselves in Ezurum at 8 PM and decided to walk to the bus station to head up to Yusefeli (a little mountain town near Atvin to do some treking) as it seemed close on the map. After walking ways in the dark we clamoured into a taxi preffering safety (after a man charged out of the dark and grabbed Cara’s ass, crotch to be more precise) to saving money. The bus station was bustling, we found out that there were many families in transit to register their freshmen for university classes. We found a nice secluded spot and set up “camp” ie put down our bags and sat on the thermarest. We looked every- bit the “hobos”. A girl passed and we pondered whether she was Turkish or a tourist, she approached us and started babbling Turkish. We said we didn’t understand and she said, “Are you tourists?” and started blushing excitedly. We said yes, and made instant friends. She was with her father and they proceeded to invite us to their home and we changed our bus ticket to go to Trabazon instead of Yusefeli. We chatted and drank chai until 2 Am with Sennur and then went to curl up and catch some ZZZs. The next day we caught the bus at 7 AM for Trabazon and due to falling rock, and an abysmally slow driver, we ended up arriving at 5 PM (three hrs later than she expected us). We were deposited at the Police Station in Arakli (she lives above it, her father is a Policeman) where we exchanged hand-language for Turkish and finally found Sennur. She frantically brought us upstairs and shared all that is the beauty of Turkish hospitality. Sennur has two younger sisters and two younger brothers. Her mom is warm and jovial. We learned how to make Borek and some Black Sea dishes, and Cat tried her hand at embroidery. We went to a local futbol match (where we were the only women in a stadium full of rowdy men, some of whom were banging huge drums and blowing torches) and visited her friends in Sumela. All in all it was a fabulous blessing to spend two days on the Black Sea with Sennur and her family. . . .
We rushed to meet the bus that stopped for us in front of Sennur’s house, barely able to maneuvre the bags chock full of pounds of organic hazelnuts, tomatoes, green peppers etc. that her mom prepared for our ride. The bus ride was long and uneventful until we had the luck to meet a fellow traveler, Tamir, at a morning rest-stop, who unbeknownst to us was on our bus as well. The three of us endured the many hours of boarder crossings. The passports were checked every five feet by yet another man dressed in khaki. A sketchy moment was when a man dressed in black demanded our passports and headed into a warehouse, but all turned out well.
Tamir knew of a great place to stay in Tbilisi, Georgia and we found ourselves in a women’s international tennis match before finding the pension. Nazi’s pension is recommended for all travelers. Nazi, a stately Georgian grandma, opens her home to all and treats them like family during the period of their stay. We stayed with her for two nights and wandered the streets of Tbilisi with Tamir during the days. During this time we got to know Tamir, a truly beautiful and inspirational human-being whom we felt blessed to meet. He has the amazing ability to bring a smile to any one’s face and make a friend of any passerby. Nazi also hosted some other colourful individuals who made our stay memorable. We spent our evening in the company of Mike, who might be described as a humorous critic who enjoyed discussing all topics ranging from the “Bachelorette” (an American Reality TV show) to globalization and the pros and cons of protest movements. We also made the aquaintance of Chris, a roving Canadian Buddhist concert pianist, who had explored just about every corner of the world and gave us some great ideas for future adventure and how to live a la Marco Polo.
Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, is a tree-lined city that sits astride a meandering river. It abounds with the architectural remnants of Moorish, Persian, Turk, Armenian and Georgian ancestry. The endless rain soaked us to the skin and after wandering up to the top of a hill to see an ancient fort converted to a church, and seeing most everything the town had to offer, we returned to Nazi’s and drank Chai (care of Cara). The view was fabulous, a low hanging rain haze mingled with church steeples, sliced by the green river.
We were assured earlier that day that the daily train for Baku departed at 8 PM (we bought our plane tickets for Bishkek at the main travel agency in town, Caucasus Travel). So, that night we arrived at the train station just after 7 PM and tried to buy a ticket at the ticket window, but were directed to the “American Express” train upstairs. We diligently followed these directions and prepared to board the train where we were stopped and asked for our visas and tickets. Of course, we had our visas, but still needed the tickets. Prepared for the $25 ticket fee we were horrified and stunned by the $220 US fee demanded by the man with a giant smirk on his face. Cara declared enraged, “I know the price of the ticket, 8 people told me it was $25”. We tried to negotiate and Cara even tried storming the train, but alas, a mean-spirited very hefty bouncer with a gun didn’t think it was too funny and dragged her off. Cat stood by shocked and somewhat dumbfounded. Not defeated, we marched away determined to prove the “stupid shit-head,” excuse our French, wrong. (Note that we had to be across the border by midnight when our visas expired) We pleaded with one girl and she half-heartedly help us to no avail. After getting about 10 men in the train station running crazy trying to help us find the cheap train going to Baku we were made aware that the “American Express” was indeed the only one going that direction and that there were no buses or mini-buses going that way either. Frantic, about to pull “girl tears,” a really nice Georgian guy, Mike, came to our aid. He tried yet again to haggle with the evil American Express men (who ever heard of a train costing 5 times as much as a flight especially when Georgians make less than $2 US a day- It’s all a big, big scam that’s what it is!!!!) to no avail. Mike arranged a speedy taxi ride for us and after crashing over many water-logged pot-holes we caught up with a train headed for Baku just as it was to cross the border. The next thing we knew we were being scurried into the customs office by military personnel and let on to the train with a smile. Whew!!!!
To our pleasant surprise the compartments were decked out with two beds, pillows and a blanket included. We settled in for the night ready for some sweet dreams. We closed our door and were awoken by banging and when we finally managed to open it (old Soviet train with sticky, sticky doors) we were greeted by severe looking Azeri border guards asking for money and passports. After some jumbled Russian conversation we said we only had “personal clothes” in our bags, and the guy stopped demanding money and let us alone.
In our struggle to shut the door once more a kindly German man tried to help us and we ended up having a lively conversation long into the night. Reiner was a former Merchant Marine/Ship Captain/Habour Master who has lived all over the world and is now working with the World Bank to train navigators in developing countries. We tossed and turned and arrived in Baku this morning at 9:30. Cat was immediately put off by the horde of wolfish taxi cab drivers waiting at the train door, but we continued on foot and found a money exchange and metro. The hotel, Canub, is an old Soviet building, and we found it easily. Today, we cut each other’s hair in order to look spiffy for our internships that begin on Monday. We indulged and ate scrumptious Indian food at the Taj Mahal restaurant and have been emailing the rest of the afternoon as there is not much to see here.
- Written by Cara and Cat
One of our friends from Istanbul, Asuman, has written a letter that she requested we post in our blog. So here it is!
***
Dear Cat and Cara,
It has been lovely to meet you and have a nice visit in Istanbul, around St. Sofia (one of our pictures in front of this superb historical piece is really nice) and the Grand Bazaar ( I remember our bargaining-girls three days later I took a friend of mine from England there and we didnt find any cusions that cheaper, you see). I am sure you will not see places like the Spice Bazaar in Eminonu-have you packed the apple tea
yet?- and the Arasta behind the Blue Mosque, where we have bought ceramics for you and Miho. And I am sure you have already missed us and the days we spent together in Istanbul.
It is life, you see. Everything is done through the desires. Certainly through our deepest desires we have met and learnt from each other
whatever we had to. I am hundred percent sure we are going to meet again.
You have accepted the challenges for your growth. Good luck for that.
And good luck for your effort and work for humanitarian issues.
We have accepted each other from the first moment we met. AND now please accept all my love towards you, your hearts and your activities
you need to fulfil.
All the best for you.
Asuman
***
Dear Cat and Cara,
It has been lovely to meet you and have a nice visit in Istanbul, around St. Sofia (one of our pictures in front of this superb historical piece is really nice) and the Grand Bazaar ( I remember our bargaining-girls three days later I took a friend of mine from England there and we didnt find any cusions that cheaper, you see). I am sure you will not see places like the Spice Bazaar in Eminonu-have you packed the apple tea
yet?- and the Arasta behind the Blue Mosque, where we have bought ceramics for you and Miho. And I am sure you have already missed us and the days we spent together in Istanbul.
It is life, you see. Everything is done through the desires. Certainly through our deepest desires we have met and learnt from each other
whatever we had to. I am hundred percent sure we are going to meet again.
You have accepted the challenges for your growth. Good luck for that.
And good luck for your effort and work for humanitarian issues.
We have accepted each other from the first moment we met. AND now please accept all my love towards you, your hearts and your activities
you need to fulfil.
All the best for you.
Asuman
Thursday, September 11, 2003
Ahhh, we're nearly a week behind on the blog and it seems impossible to catch up! We have done so many interesting things in Turkey... We stayed in Istanbul until Monday afternoon- we kept putting off the departure because we were having so much fun! What else did we do? We actually didn't do all that much sight-seeing. Thursday we attempted to continue our tour of Istanbul (the same group of ppl) but it was really really cold and rainy- a drastic contrast to the scalding heat of the previous week. We visited the bazaars again and the Aya Sofia, which is one of the most famous mosques in the world. And we had a long breakfast consisting of almost every kind of borek that exists- borek is a breakfast pastry that can be stuffed with many things- cheese, potatoes, spinach, or just with powdered sugar. It is delicious!! As the theme of our stay in Istanbul seemed to be food and more food, and our Turkish friends were introducing us to the many delights of Turkish cuisine, Cat and I decided to repay everyone by cooking a more "American" meal for the whole group that night. So we cut our day short and headed to Berkay's place to somehow concoct lasagna with none of the right ingredients. I must say that the two of us together in the kitchen can sometimes work miracles! The lasagna turned out great, even though we had to make our own tomato sauce, and use Turkish cheeses mixed with yogurt, etc, etc. It was really fun cooking for everyone too and spending another night enjoying good company at berkay's house.
Friday was the date of Miho's departure, unfortunately. Even though she only stayed a few days we all fell in love with her! So we had a goobye breakfast in a town (actually, the place where haluk is from, but we forget the name) near the Bosphorous before she had to go to the airport.
The rest of the weekend passed so quickly that it is difficult to even recount exactly what we did. On Saturday we had a super fun night out on the town with Bengu, Banu, Banu's boyfriend, and their cousin. Taksim, right in the center of the European part of Istanbul, is a fabulous place to go at night. It definitely is somewhat reminiscent of other European cities in that it is a pedestrian only zone- although there is a tram that occassionally runs down the middle of the street (there's no barrier so one must clear out when the tram comes, so as not to get run over!).
Turn off the main street in Taksim and you enter into the side roads where cafes and merchant's shops line the streets. The bright lights spilling from cheerful shops beckon people inside. Music tinkles down from rooftop terraces, as people below amble by, arm in arm. Heavier base and reggae sounds filter up from night clubs, turning unto a street packed with tables where people are served Turkish coffee, Tea, drinks and food all night, one is enlivened by the atmosphere. At 2 Am all the little fruit stands are still beckoning you and one has to stop and taste the mussles filled with rice, currants and cumin. They are fabulous and even Cat (who normally hates mussels) ate several.
Cat and Bengu were still ready to jive in Rydms, but alas a couple of rather intoxicated guys who wouldn't stop petting a pour sleeping cat persauded Bengu's cousin that it was time to go. We left and headed for a parking garage, buying some burned CDs on the way. They have absolutely everything and then went home.
The next day, Sunday, we slept late, packed christmas gifts (yes, we are way ahead of schedule and already bought all of Istanbul) and tried to rewater proof our rain jackets. Realizing that it was going to take quite a long time for some of our clothes to air dry and not wanting to leave Bengu and Banu (Bengu's sister) we decided to stay another night. Travel adminstrative tasks required us to go to the train station and attempt to reserve our seats for our 10 hour train ride to Cappadoccia. We found out that the train is much, much cheaper than the bus. We had previously planned to stop and see Berkay in Anapazeri and couldn't resist going to an off-the-beaten track location and so we bought a ticket there. We then headed for the internet cafe and had a marathon session until we noticed it was dark and we better leave. We were in the middle of Kadicoy, a bussling center and were told it was not very safe at night. Incidently, Cat had run into Haluk on-line and he came down and met us in Kadicoy and we went to eat Turkish Pizza. A flat bread with tomatoes, meat and some other veggies (no cheese).
Well, we are out of time. sad, sad.
we'll write again soon, before we get too behind.
OH, just to let you know we are in Goerme, Cappadoccia (Central Anatolia). Sorry, all of our Turkish friends for now spelling them right.
Updates soon, we promise.
Cat (aka. Goerge from now on) and Cara (now Michelle or as she will be called Mish)
Don't ask. you'll be told soon.
written by Goerge and Mish
Friday was the date of Miho's departure, unfortunately. Even though she only stayed a few days we all fell in love with her! So we had a goobye breakfast in a town (actually, the place where haluk is from, but we forget the name) near the Bosphorous before she had to go to the airport.
The rest of the weekend passed so quickly that it is difficult to even recount exactly what we did. On Saturday we had a super fun night out on the town with Bengu, Banu, Banu's boyfriend, and their cousin. Taksim, right in the center of the European part of Istanbul, is a fabulous place to go at night. It definitely is somewhat reminiscent of other European cities in that it is a pedestrian only zone- although there is a tram that occassionally runs down the middle of the street (there's no barrier so one must clear out when the tram comes, so as not to get run over!).
Turn off the main street in Taksim and you enter into the side roads where cafes and merchant's shops line the streets. The bright lights spilling from cheerful shops beckon people inside. Music tinkles down from rooftop terraces, as people below amble by, arm in arm. Heavier base and reggae sounds filter up from night clubs, turning unto a street packed with tables where people are served Turkish coffee, Tea, drinks and food all night, one is enlivened by the atmosphere. At 2 Am all the little fruit stands are still beckoning you and one has to stop and taste the mussles filled with rice, currants and cumin. They are fabulous and even Cat (who normally hates mussels) ate several.
Cat and Bengu were still ready to jive in Rydms, but alas a couple of rather intoxicated guys who wouldn't stop petting a pour sleeping cat persauded Bengu's cousin that it was time to go. We left and headed for a parking garage, buying some burned CDs on the way. They have absolutely everything and then went home.
The next day, Sunday, we slept late, packed christmas gifts (yes, we are way ahead of schedule and already bought all of Istanbul) and tried to rewater proof our rain jackets. Realizing that it was going to take quite a long time for some of our clothes to air dry and not wanting to leave Bengu and Banu (Bengu's sister) we decided to stay another night. Travel adminstrative tasks required us to go to the train station and attempt to reserve our seats for our 10 hour train ride to Cappadoccia. We found out that the train is much, much cheaper than the bus. We had previously planned to stop and see Berkay in Anapazeri and couldn't resist going to an off-the-beaten track location and so we bought a ticket there. We then headed for the internet cafe and had a marathon session until we noticed it was dark and we better leave. We were in the middle of Kadicoy, a bussling center and were told it was not very safe at night. Incidently, Cat had run into Haluk on-line and he came down and met us in Kadicoy and we went to eat Turkish Pizza. A flat bread with tomatoes, meat and some other veggies (no cheese).
Well, we are out of time. sad, sad.
we'll write again soon, before we get too behind.
OH, just to let you know we are in Goerme, Cappadoccia (Central Anatolia). Sorry, all of our Turkish friends for now spelling them right.
Updates soon, we promise.
Cat (aka. Goerge from now on) and Cara (now Michelle or as she will be called Mish)
Don't ask. you'll be told soon.
written by Goerge and Mish
Monday, September 08, 2003
We have a whole week of adventures in Istanbul to get caught up on. Thanks to you who have been waiting patiently to find out what the heck has been going on in the lives of Cara and Catherine this last week. And again, we intended to write a huge update on everything but time is getting short and we have to meet our friend Haluk soon. But we will give it a try. So, to pick up where we left off...
There we were, Monday morning, having been dumped on the side of the road in a place called "Harem." Luckily, friendly people abound in Turkey and a girl who spoke impeccable English helped arrange a taxi to take us to Bengu's address. We arrive at 8am, almost simultaneous with Bengu's sister Banu's arrival home from work, and we all proceeded to sleep the day away... a much needed rest. That night we finally met Bengu. She is Chizuru's good friend who studied at Kansai Gaidai in Osaka for a year. We had all heard a ton about eachother via Chizuru, and it was so good to finally meet! Bengu is a wonderful, and very hospitable girl (as is her sister Banu!) and they were so nice to offer us a place to stay in Istanbul. We loved it so much that we kept staying longer and longer! Hence the reason we have now been in Istanbul a week and will only finally reluctantly tear ourselves away tomorrow.
Bengu brought her good friend Berkay home with her and then cooked us a wonderful dinner on our first night in Istanbul. Unfortunately, Bengu had to take a business trip to Ankara the next day and worried she wouldn't be back until very late. So Berkay agreed to take us under his wing for the day. We're not sure that he knew what he was getting himself into! We had a rather complicated agenda as we had to run around finding visas and such (we succeeded in getting a transit visa through Georgia and supposedly we can easily obtain a visa to Azerbaijan in Tbilisi. Let's keep our fingers crossed!). We also have to insert here that we have affectionately nicknamed Berkay "Burt" after one of our favorite Sesame Street characters. Cat, too, has morphed into "George" (short for "Curious George" because of her never-ending curiosity. You may see the name "George" used in the blog in later entries and this is a warning that it will be in reference to her).
So Tuesday was a day full of errands. Berkay was kind enough to help us sort out the visa issues, and he took us to his university and to Taksim, the central part of Istanbul. He even put up with all of George's questions with a smile on his face! Our visit was well-timed because Berkay's Japanese friend Miho flew in for a visit that night. She is a flight attendant in Japan and had a short 3 day trip to Istanbul. What a lovely girl she is! We had so much fun touring around Istanbul and sharing our experience in this wonderful country with her. So, while Berkay was off fetching her from the airport on Tuesday night we crashed at his place and met his roommate, Haluk, who in the typical Turkish fashion, also proved to be a great host. He treated us to American pizza and we enjoyed many hours of conversation, centering a lot on politics of course. We tend to get into a lot of fascinating political conversations while travelling.
Wednesday was our first big day for sightseeing in Istanbul. We were joined by another Turkish friend of Miho's, Asuman. We saw the amazing Blue Mosque, and the Grand Bazaar, and enjoyed tasting Turkish ice cream, cherry juice, and an excellent lunch of kefte, bean salad, and semolina dessert. Have we mentioned how fabulous the food is here? Probably, as we love it so much! We've become particularly attached to the cherry juice and cherry jam. That night we met up with Bengu and Banu, as well as some other friends, and they took us to a restaurant serving traditional Turkish food. Yes, we are pretty much eating food non-stop here, thus destroying any and all efforts to eat healthy, exercise, get in shape.... we had been pretty good about that in Greece, but now all our efforts have been pretty much erased. Oh well, we're living in the moment and enjoying it!
Ok, we are late meeting Haluk so must jet. But there will be more to come....
written by Cara
There we were, Monday morning, having been dumped on the side of the road in a place called "Harem." Luckily, friendly people abound in Turkey and a girl who spoke impeccable English helped arrange a taxi to take us to Bengu's address. We arrive at 8am, almost simultaneous with Bengu's sister Banu's arrival home from work, and we all proceeded to sleep the day away... a much needed rest. That night we finally met Bengu. She is Chizuru's good friend who studied at Kansai Gaidai in Osaka for a year. We had all heard a ton about eachother via Chizuru, and it was so good to finally meet! Bengu is a wonderful, and very hospitable girl (as is her sister Banu!) and they were so nice to offer us a place to stay in Istanbul. We loved it so much that we kept staying longer and longer! Hence the reason we have now been in Istanbul a week and will only finally reluctantly tear ourselves away tomorrow.
Bengu brought her good friend Berkay home with her and then cooked us a wonderful dinner on our first night in Istanbul. Unfortunately, Bengu had to take a business trip to Ankara the next day and worried she wouldn't be back until very late. So Berkay agreed to take us under his wing for the day. We're not sure that he knew what he was getting himself into! We had a rather complicated agenda as we had to run around finding visas and such (we succeeded in getting a transit visa through Georgia and supposedly we can easily obtain a visa to Azerbaijan in Tbilisi. Let's keep our fingers crossed!). We also have to insert here that we have affectionately nicknamed Berkay "Burt" after one of our favorite Sesame Street characters. Cat, too, has morphed into "George" (short for "Curious George" because of her never-ending curiosity. You may see the name "George" used in the blog in later entries and this is a warning that it will be in reference to her).
So Tuesday was a day full of errands. Berkay was kind enough to help us sort out the visa issues, and he took us to his university and to Taksim, the central part of Istanbul. He even put up with all of George's questions with a smile on his face! Our visit was well-timed because Berkay's Japanese friend Miho flew in for a visit that night. She is a flight attendant in Japan and had a short 3 day trip to Istanbul. What a lovely girl she is! We had so much fun touring around Istanbul and sharing our experience in this wonderful country with her. So, while Berkay was off fetching her from the airport on Tuesday night we crashed at his place and met his roommate, Haluk, who in the typical Turkish fashion, also proved to be a great host. He treated us to American pizza and we enjoyed many hours of conversation, centering a lot on politics of course. We tend to get into a lot of fascinating political conversations while travelling.
Wednesday was our first big day for sightseeing in Istanbul. We were joined by another Turkish friend of Miho's, Asuman. We saw the amazing Blue Mosque, and the Grand Bazaar, and enjoyed tasting Turkish ice cream, cherry juice, and an excellent lunch of kefte, bean salad, and semolina dessert. Have we mentioned how fabulous the food is here? Probably, as we love it so much! We've become particularly attached to the cherry juice and cherry jam. That night we met up with Bengu and Banu, as well as some other friends, and they took us to a restaurant serving traditional Turkish food. Yes, we are pretty much eating food non-stop here, thus destroying any and all efforts to eat healthy, exercise, get in shape.... we had been pretty good about that in Greece, but now all our efforts have been pretty much erased. Oh well, we're living in the moment and enjoying it!
Ok, we are late meeting Haluk so must jet. But there will be more to come....
written by Cara
Friday, September 05, 2003
“Turkish Delights”
We haven’t written in quite awhile, so it is time for a serious update. We left you in Selcuk, and it’s now been over a week since we were in that lovely town. We went to a spectacular Saturday market overflowing with colorfully displayed produce (Turkey has some of the best organic fruits and vegetables that we have ever seen and/or tasted. The vibrant greens, reds, oranges, yellows, and purples are almost a sensory overload as one meanders through the plethora of family-run, makeshift stalls), and beautifully handcrafted doilies and tablecloths. It transported us back to what must have been the America of the 1800s, when families put love and time into artesanry and enjoyed passing their craft to younger generations. One of our favorite stalls was the one selling nearly every type of nut that one can imagine. We, of course, sampled them all before deciding how to invest our measly $4. Amazing that the Turks are so generous, even to poor students who they must know do not present a profit. We actually managed to make the nuts last about 3 days. However, times have changed, and we have been living high on the hog since we reached Instanbul (no more rationing and starvation quotas for us! Well, at least until we leave Istanbul…)
Our next destination was Bergama (formerly the ancient city of Pergamon). We descended from the bus, and while Cara was preoccupied with finding our gargantuan pile of luggage (it had somehow grown exponentially overnight, much to Cara’s chagrin- the oft-used phrase became “THIS IS GOING TO END AS SOON AS WE REACH ISTANBUL”), Cat, who is always amiable with the locals, had connected with the proprietor of the Athena Pension. In fact, we had been informed that the Athena was the best option for accommodations prior to arriving in Bergama, but all the same, it is quite astounding that pension and hostel owners seem to pop out of the woodwork everywhere we go. So Cara, not realizing that this man was from the Athena, instead, thinking that he was some guy off the street trying to sell us a room in a sketchy hotel, acted the part of the ice bitch and almost scared the guy off forever. In fact, we were a bit sketched out when he took off with our bags on his motorbike… but alas, all was well. He came back and helped us walk the 900 meters, which seemed like two miles, with our heavy packs to the Athena Pension, “it’s not the best, but it’s trying to be.” We struck quite a bargain, for a mere $4 apiece we got to sleep under the stars on the terrace, listening to wild Sufi music in celebration of Independence late into the night/morning. We also ended up eating an enormous traditional Turkish breakfast the following morning for a scant 75 cents each (all we had to do was hold out until all the other tourists left, as well as agree to listen to the proprietor’s lesbian fantasies in order for the regular price of $4 to be reduced to this spectacular deal- although whether or not it was really worth it was debatable since we were slightly traumatized following the breakfast conversation). Anyway, breakfast included: Turkish omelette, two kinds of bread, two kinds of cheese, cherry and strawberry jam, olives, fruit, and sweets. We have absolutely fallen in love with the jam here- the cherry jam is particularly divine.
Our main purpose of visiting Bergama was to see the historical site where the former city of Pergamon sits on a hill overlooking the modern city. Being the cheapos that we are (and as we are sensitive to local customs as well), the proprietor who we still have no idea what his name was, showed us the proper way to explore the ruins by climbing through a hole in the periphery fence and scrambling up the hill, thus avoiding the extortionate entrance fees. It was another HOT day in Turkey, and after visiting the ruins for a couple of hours (the best part was the amazing ampitheatre which looked out over the amazing vista below) we were parched with thirst and slid back down the side of the hill in search of more water. Luckily, the infamous proprietor was out when we returned, and we were able to leave without enduring a last conversation about his sexual longings.
Our mission was to make it to Troy that afternoon. We hopped onto a midibus headed for Ayvalik, a coastal town reknowned for its olive oil and beauty, and switched to another midibus, and another, each time paying another $5, another $10, etc. Soon the afternoon had waned into evening. We seemed to be moving at a snail-like pace towards Troy, all the while being charged as if we were flying first class on some luxury jetliner. Worrying that our bank accounts would soon be empty, but us no closer to Troy (with no place to stay except perhaps pitching a tent under the safeguard of the Trojan Horse), we opted to take a direct bus to Canakkale, on the Sea of Marmara, (both of us being overwhelmed with bouts of nausea and heatstroke on this bus ride- we found out the hard way that air conditioning does not mean the same thing in Turkey as it does in the US) instead. We called Bengu, Chizuru’s friend in Istanbul, now a good friend of our’s as well, to tell her we were descending on her a day earlier than planned. We thought we would “shop around” for the best price for this last leg of our bus trip to Istanbul, seeing as we had already spent at least $50 more than our daily budget (we had thought each leg would be about $2. Yes, we were slightly delusional). So we took turns casually wandering around the bus station asking prices of tickets to Istanbul and looking affronted at the prices quoted. We were convinced that we had become embroiled in a scheme to rip off the ignorant American tourists and were determined not to be taken advantage of this time. But we found out that our suspicions were grossly unfounded, as people in Turkey really are quite honest and helpful, the price really was that ridiculously high. We haggled and succeeded in obtaining a student discount which no more glorious than a 75 cent reduction. We purchased the cheapest tickets, of course, and were ushered on to a special shuttle to the port. We passed our time reading Harry Potter # 2 and drinking “special” cherry juice on the docks. Harry Potter sucked us in and we almost missed our bus (it’s become an addictive past-time to read it to eachother- though we do miss Colleen’s interpretive reading).
We finally arrived in Istanbul at dawn, the city-scapes seemed to blend with our dreams, as we drifted in and out of consciousness. We were abruptly awakened by the bus driver and deposited on the curbside, too late realizing that this was not Kadikoy, our end destination.
Right now we are writing to you all despite protestations from our friends in Istanbul. We have just finished a fabulous meal- we managed to miraculously concoct an Ameri-style lasagna without any of the common ingredients, a kind-of thank you to our wonderful hosts. We’re being rude, so we’ll finish our update before we leave on Sunday and now turn this journal over to our new-found friends (though we feel we have known eachother for ages) to write a word or two.
***
Hi, I am Miho Konishi from Japan. I met them 2 days ago but I feel I have been with them for long years as they told you. We have really nice and wonderful time in Istanbul!!!!!! We enjoyed going shopping (we are very good at gettting discount price) , eating Turkish food , going for sightseeing and so on!!! Anyhow they are really nice and I like them a lot. I wish I had more time to spend with them. Unfortunately I have to say good bye to them tomorrow (I will go back to Japan tomorrow) but I am sure we can see with each other in a few years and spend good time together!!!!!! Maybe in the States, Japan, or other foreign countries?!?!!!
But definetely we will!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh, I already miss them:)
***
Haluk from Turkey. These girls forced me to write something about myself but it is not so easy. I have just washed all the dishes of the dinner and I am so sleepy, so tired and soooooo………….
***
chiz…that was the only thing binding us before u ended up in my apartment….now I can understand why she was talking about u guys 24 hrs a day-I should also confess that sometimes I was getting bored and jealous:). But pls pls believe me: I m normally a more lively and smiling girl but working life made me an old and tired lady. BUT BUT BUT the best thing is that we have a weekend to spend TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bengu
***
berkay, or burt or budu, whatever…
it is 3 am and this girls still wait for me to write something for them…oh, I just realised that they are already laying in their beds...well, they should actually, because we have lots of to do tomorrow- like every day! This morning for example, we woke up at 7 am, what a holiday!! And do you want to know how my day was: running after 4 girls shopping in bazaars (well, here I should mention that I am a boy), making all the sellers mad, bargaining in each store etc. ehm, cara just made the mistake saying that I can write as much as I can!! But don’t worry, I will not, I want to get some sleep before another hard day, let me just describe those 4 girls:
Asuman: I am cold, let’s go home and do some meditation!
Miho: hurry up, I want to see all the sightseeing spots! I want to see the palace…
A dialog to describe Cara:
Seller: 350 million Turkish Lira
Cara: No
Seller: What would you give?
Cara: 250
Seller: Oh, no, that’s impossible! But 300 for you
Cara: 250
Seller: 280
Cara: 250
Seller: 270
Cara: 250
Seller: 260
Cara: 250
Seller: Oh please!
Cara: Ok, 252
And they bought 2 leather jackets for less than 200 USD!
A dialog for Catherine:
Catherine: What is this?
Berkay: This is …
Catherine: And this?
Berkay: This is …
Catherine: Why?
Berkay: ??? I don’t know!!
Catherine : Who is this?
Berkay: Ehm, I think he is …
Catherine: Why?
Berkay: Rrrrrrrrgh!!!
Catherine: What is this about? Why? How? Who? How? Where?
Berkay: When are you going to Kyrgyzstan?
It was nice to meet you girls, I am really going to miss you…I hope you are going to like it in my hometown this weekend, I am sure you will love the meatballs though :)
Chizuru, the VERY beautiful japanese girl, I am missing you too…When are you coming?
Ok, I wish these two crazy girls lots of fun in georgia, azerbaijan and kyrgyzstan and whereever else…
Berkay
We haven’t written in quite awhile, so it is time for a serious update. We left you in Selcuk, and it’s now been over a week since we were in that lovely town. We went to a spectacular Saturday market overflowing with colorfully displayed produce (Turkey has some of the best organic fruits and vegetables that we have ever seen and/or tasted. The vibrant greens, reds, oranges, yellows, and purples are almost a sensory overload as one meanders through the plethora of family-run, makeshift stalls), and beautifully handcrafted doilies and tablecloths. It transported us back to what must have been the America of the 1800s, when families put love and time into artesanry and enjoyed passing their craft to younger generations. One of our favorite stalls was the one selling nearly every type of nut that one can imagine. We, of course, sampled them all before deciding how to invest our measly $4. Amazing that the Turks are so generous, even to poor students who they must know do not present a profit. We actually managed to make the nuts last about 3 days. However, times have changed, and we have been living high on the hog since we reached Instanbul (no more rationing and starvation quotas for us! Well, at least until we leave Istanbul…)
Our next destination was Bergama (formerly the ancient city of Pergamon). We descended from the bus, and while Cara was preoccupied with finding our gargantuan pile of luggage (it had somehow grown exponentially overnight, much to Cara’s chagrin- the oft-used phrase became “THIS IS GOING TO END AS SOON AS WE REACH ISTANBUL”), Cat, who is always amiable with the locals, had connected with the proprietor of the Athena Pension. In fact, we had been informed that the Athena was the best option for accommodations prior to arriving in Bergama, but all the same, it is quite astounding that pension and hostel owners seem to pop out of the woodwork everywhere we go. So Cara, not realizing that this man was from the Athena, instead, thinking that he was some guy off the street trying to sell us a room in a sketchy hotel, acted the part of the ice bitch and almost scared the guy off forever. In fact, we were a bit sketched out when he took off with our bags on his motorbike… but alas, all was well. He came back and helped us walk the 900 meters, which seemed like two miles, with our heavy packs to the Athena Pension, “it’s not the best, but it’s trying to be.” We struck quite a bargain, for a mere $4 apiece we got to sleep under the stars on the terrace, listening to wild Sufi music in celebration of Independence late into the night/morning. We also ended up eating an enormous traditional Turkish breakfast the following morning for a scant 75 cents each (all we had to do was hold out until all the other tourists left, as well as agree to listen to the proprietor’s lesbian fantasies in order for the regular price of $4 to be reduced to this spectacular deal- although whether or not it was really worth it was debatable since we were slightly traumatized following the breakfast conversation). Anyway, breakfast included: Turkish omelette, two kinds of bread, two kinds of cheese, cherry and strawberry jam, olives, fruit, and sweets. We have absolutely fallen in love with the jam here- the cherry jam is particularly divine.
Our main purpose of visiting Bergama was to see the historical site where the former city of Pergamon sits on a hill overlooking the modern city. Being the cheapos that we are (and as we are sensitive to local customs as well), the proprietor who we still have no idea what his name was, showed us the proper way to explore the ruins by climbing through a hole in the periphery fence and scrambling up the hill, thus avoiding the extortionate entrance fees. It was another HOT day in Turkey, and after visiting the ruins for a couple of hours (the best part was the amazing ampitheatre which looked out over the amazing vista below) we were parched with thirst and slid back down the side of the hill in search of more water. Luckily, the infamous proprietor was out when we returned, and we were able to leave without enduring a last conversation about his sexual longings.
Our mission was to make it to Troy that afternoon. We hopped onto a midibus headed for Ayvalik, a coastal town reknowned for its olive oil and beauty, and switched to another midibus, and another, each time paying another $5, another $10, etc. Soon the afternoon had waned into evening. We seemed to be moving at a snail-like pace towards Troy, all the while being charged as if we were flying first class on some luxury jetliner. Worrying that our bank accounts would soon be empty, but us no closer to Troy (with no place to stay except perhaps pitching a tent under the safeguard of the Trojan Horse), we opted to take a direct bus to Canakkale, on the Sea of Marmara, (both of us being overwhelmed with bouts of nausea and heatstroke on this bus ride- we found out the hard way that air conditioning does not mean the same thing in Turkey as it does in the US) instead. We called Bengu, Chizuru’s friend in Istanbul, now a good friend of our’s as well, to tell her we were descending on her a day earlier than planned. We thought we would “shop around” for the best price for this last leg of our bus trip to Istanbul, seeing as we had already spent at least $50 more than our daily budget (we had thought each leg would be about $2. Yes, we were slightly delusional). So we took turns casually wandering around the bus station asking prices of tickets to Istanbul and looking affronted at the prices quoted. We were convinced that we had become embroiled in a scheme to rip off the ignorant American tourists and were determined not to be taken advantage of this time. But we found out that our suspicions were grossly unfounded, as people in Turkey really are quite honest and helpful, the price really was that ridiculously high. We haggled and succeeded in obtaining a student discount which no more glorious than a 75 cent reduction. We purchased the cheapest tickets, of course, and were ushered on to a special shuttle to the port. We passed our time reading Harry Potter # 2 and drinking “special” cherry juice on the docks. Harry Potter sucked us in and we almost missed our bus (it’s become an addictive past-time to read it to eachother- though we do miss Colleen’s interpretive reading).
We finally arrived in Istanbul at dawn, the city-scapes seemed to blend with our dreams, as we drifted in and out of consciousness. We were abruptly awakened by the bus driver and deposited on the curbside, too late realizing that this was not Kadikoy, our end destination.
Right now we are writing to you all despite protestations from our friends in Istanbul. We have just finished a fabulous meal- we managed to miraculously concoct an Ameri-style lasagna without any of the common ingredients, a kind-of thank you to our wonderful hosts. We’re being rude, so we’ll finish our update before we leave on Sunday and now turn this journal over to our new-found friends (though we feel we have known eachother for ages) to write a word or two.
***
Hi, I am Miho Konishi from Japan. I met them 2 days ago but I feel I have been with them for long years as they told you. We have really nice and wonderful time in Istanbul!!!!!! We enjoyed going shopping (we are very good at gettting discount price) , eating Turkish food , going for sightseeing and so on!!! Anyhow they are really nice and I like them a lot. I wish I had more time to spend with them. Unfortunately I have to say good bye to them tomorrow (I will go back to Japan tomorrow) but I am sure we can see with each other in a few years and spend good time together!!!!!! Maybe in the States, Japan, or other foreign countries?!?!!!
But definetely we will!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh, I already miss them:)
***
Haluk from Turkey. These girls forced me to write something about myself but it is not so easy. I have just washed all the dishes of the dinner and I am so sleepy, so tired and soooooo………….
***
chiz…that was the only thing binding us before u ended up in my apartment….now I can understand why she was talking about u guys 24 hrs a day-I should also confess that sometimes I was getting bored and jealous:). But pls pls believe me: I m normally a more lively and smiling girl but working life made me an old and tired lady. BUT BUT BUT the best thing is that we have a weekend to spend TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bengu
***
berkay, or burt or budu, whatever…
it is 3 am and this girls still wait for me to write something for them…oh, I just realised that they are already laying in their beds...well, they should actually, because we have lots of to do tomorrow- like every day! This morning for example, we woke up at 7 am, what a holiday!! And do you want to know how my day was: running after 4 girls shopping in bazaars (well, here I should mention that I am a boy), making all the sellers mad, bargaining in each store etc. ehm, cara just made the mistake saying that I can write as much as I can!! But don’t worry, I will not, I want to get some sleep before another hard day, let me just describe those 4 girls:
Asuman: I am cold, let’s go home and do some meditation!
Miho: hurry up, I want to see all the sightseeing spots! I want to see the palace…
A dialog to describe Cara:
Seller: 350 million Turkish Lira
Cara: No
Seller: What would you give?
Cara: 250
Seller: Oh, no, that’s impossible! But 300 for you
Cara: 250
Seller: 280
Cara: 250
Seller: 270
Cara: 250
Seller: 260
Cara: 250
Seller: Oh please!
Cara: Ok, 252
And they bought 2 leather jackets for less than 200 USD!
A dialog for Catherine:
Catherine: What is this?
Berkay: This is …
Catherine: And this?
Berkay: This is …
Catherine: Why?
Berkay: ??? I don’t know!!
Catherine : Who is this?
Berkay: Ehm, I think he is …
Catherine: Why?
Berkay: Rrrrrrrrgh!!!
Catherine: What is this about? Why? How? Who? How? Where?
Berkay: When are you going to Kyrgyzstan?
It was nice to meet you girls, I am really going to miss you…I hope you are going to like it in my hometown this weekend, I am sure you will love the meatballs though :)
Chizuru, the VERY beautiful japanese girl, I am missing you too…When are you coming?
Ok, I wish these two crazy girls lots of fun in georgia, azerbaijan and kyrgyzstan and whereever else…
Berkay
Tuesday, September 02, 2003
So we're in Istanbul right now staying with Chizuru's friend Bengu, who is absolutely wonderful (as is her sister Banu). We arrived on the overnight bus from Canakkale Monday and basically passed out on their couch in the livingroom for the rest of the day, before Bengu came home from work that night and cooked us a fabulous chicken and pasta dinner. How's that for good hospitatlity? More proof that our time in Turkey has been full of friendly and helpful people. Although, like any country in the world, we are observing that the friendliness is not quite as pervasive in the big city as elsewhere.
Well, we're off to do a bunch of errands. Visas and such. Oh, the fun of doing travel errands.
written by Cara
Well, we're off to do a bunch of errands. Visas and such. Oh, the fun of doing travel errands.
written by Cara
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